Nestled up on a hillside, right behind the holy Temple of the Tooth Relic, Udawatta Kele Sanctuary is a nature preserve most dearly appreciated in the city of Kandy. The 104-hectare forest reserve is considered the "king's forest" and presents an unusual combination of history, serenity, and superlative biodiversity within the very heart of this ever-bustling metropolis.

A Royal Legacy

The history of the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary dates back to the peak of the Kandyan Kingdom. At that time, the land, named “Uda Wasala Watta,” meaning the garden above the royal palace, was an exclusive pleasure area only for the king to use. Commoners were prohibited from entering, hence the land also being known as “Thahansi Kele,” which is the forbidden forest.

These ancient trees, meandering roads, and serene lakes created an environment in which the royal family could find refuge. Though the British conquest in Kandy led to the area being taken over in 1815, the forests continued to remain an enigma. Nevertheless, the destruction of the forests began rapidly. It was to save the remaining forests that the colonial government declared it a reserve in 1856. It again received the final government gazette in 1938 as a sanctuary.

Nowadays, remains of its ancient religious heritage are visible, including hidden cave hermitages that were used as dwelling places by Buddhist monks in the past, as well as three forest monasteries.

Exploring the Trails

Taking a walk in Udawatta Kele Sanctuary is akin to experiencing another world. The place is dotted with walkways of various difficulty levels, some of which are easy loops that beginners can take, while others involve climbing, which, in turn, offers great views of Kandy Lake and the city of Kandy.

The Royal Pond, a peaceful spot lined by trees and ferns, is also an extremely popular destination. Several people stop by here to listen to the sound of leaves rustling in the wind and distant bird songs. The Kodimale Peak further up provides an excellent spot to enjoy an overview of Kandy, with the golden roof of the Temple of the Tooth standing out in the distance on a clear day.

The ambience of this forest is most magical at the beginning of the day when mist is still hovering among the trees. Walking through this place for a couple of hours is sufficient to appreciate the vastness of this sanctuary.

A True Biodiversity Hotspot

What makes the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary truly unique is the extraordinary biodiversity the land home to. With such an urban environment surrounding the land, the forest houses over 400 species of plants, including large emergent trees, ferns, massive lianas that hang over the treetops, and many orchids and epiphytes.

The birdlife is quite exciting. There are 80 species of birds that have been documented here, besides many that are found only in Sri Lanka. Bird watchers come here to find Layard’s parakeet, yellow-fronted barbet, Sri Lanka hanging parrot, and shy brown-capped babbler. When one is lucky, there is always the chance of seeing the three-toed kingfisher by the pond.

The mammals are less evident but abound. The sounds of the toque macaques ring out among the treetops, the wild boars root about on the floor of the forest, and the barking deer roam silently among the undergrowth. Reptiles, frogs, butterflies, and insects further fill out the fabric of nature.

The presence of the sanctuary situated on a hill ridge, along with its protected status, has enabled such an exemplary ecological system to develop despite the surrounding pressures of urbanization.

Practical Tips for Visitors

Access to the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary is easy. The entrance to the Sanctuary takes just a 15 to 20-minute walk from the Temple of the Tooth Relic site on a small uphill climb to reach it. The gates for the sanctuary are open every day, from 8:00 to 6:00 PM.

Entry charges for Sri Lankans are relatively low, while foreign tourists will also find it affordable. The driest climatic conditions, when birds can also be spotted easily, occur from January to April. The coolest temperatures, along with a better opportunity for viewing wild animals, can be experienced in the mornings.

Good walking shoes are necessary, since trails include uneven and steep paths. Binoculars and field guides are a must for serious birding. The trails must be kept to, the delicate ecosystem will be appreciative of this, as well as the mischievous monkeys encountered along the way.

Udawatta Kele Sanctuary acts as a living testament to the royal past of Kandy, and forms an important haven for nature amidst this ever-growing city. Whether one is looking forward to spending a peaceful time, experiencing the unique avifauna, or taking an easy stroll through these ancient trees, this hidden forest makes for an experience very long after one has left.

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